Friday, August 22, 2008
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
the road more or less traveled...
It's been such a long time, and so much has happened. I am about to hit the open road with Liz and her cousins for adventures in Senegal and Gambia. I will then return to Guinea and barely have a moment to breathe. So since I found myself with a whole day to do nothing, I guess I can update you on whats been happening.
- As many of you have read thanks to the other volunteers who are much better at keeping up their blogs G 15 (my group) has lost 2 more volunteers. Though I am not able to discuss the reasons for their depature, you can check it out at katie's blog (tckinguinea.blogspot.com). I was lucky enough to see Katie before she left, and it was the hardest goodbye ever. Melissa, unfortunately, I was not able to see but miss her all the same. Katie and Melissa, Haute, Kankan and Guinea just won't be the same without you.
-G 16, the new group has arrived in country. The reports I'm getting from the volunteers that are training them are great. This new group of volunteers seems to be extremely motivated and eager to learn and even more ready to get out to their sites (which they find out on friday) and start teaching.
- Friday marks the beginning of my very first vacation in Africa. Liz, and her cousins invited me to tag along on their adventures to Senegal and Gambia. I am really excited to start seeing other parts of West Africa.
- Work is going swimmingly. By the time i get back from vacation we will have already started a 6 week training for 2 very large groups of businessmen and women. It will take place here, in Kankan and Siguri a town about 2 hours from here. So until Sept. 13th, I'll be all over the place!
- Girls Conference is also coming up, along with the arrival of the new volunteers at site. Girls Conference was started long before my time as a volunteer, it takes place once a year. It was scheduled for June but there were some political problems that caused us to reschedule. However, each volunteer invites a girl from their village/town and they come to Kankan or Mamou for 5 days and learn about a variety of different things... from planning for the future, to health issues. I, along with Adam, are planning the Kankan Conference so its kind of my baby and I'm excited to see it finally happen.
- So turns out my illness from earlier in the month was a nice little cocktail of ameobas. It was nasty to say the least. I'm feeling better and hoping they decide not to resurface.
- There is real ice cream in Kankan. Real being a relative term. It is by no means anything like the ice cream we know, and speaking of ameobas it might even bring them back again, but for now its a nice, refreshing treat in the hot sticky mess that is Kankan in the rainy season.
For the moment thats all I can think of. I really need to be better about writing things down so I can tell you all about them. I'll post some pictures to make up for my lack of information. I'll be back sometime in mid-september. Until then, I love you all.
We stopped for breakfast in Kouroussa and these two girls stopped by to wish us Bon Voyage.
My favorite, non-volunteer resident of Sabadou Baranama. Lancine.
- As many of you have read thanks to the other volunteers who are much better at keeping up their blogs G 15 (my group) has lost 2 more volunteers. Though I am not able to discuss the reasons for their depature, you can check it out at katie's blog (tckinguinea.blogspot.com). I was lucky enough to see Katie before she left, and it was the hardest goodbye ever. Melissa, unfortunately, I was not able to see but miss her all the same. Katie and Melissa, Haute, Kankan and Guinea just won't be the same without you.
-G 16, the new group has arrived in country. The reports I'm getting from the volunteers that are training them are great. This new group of volunteers seems to be extremely motivated and eager to learn and even more ready to get out to their sites (which they find out on friday) and start teaching.
- Friday marks the beginning of my very first vacation in Africa. Liz, and her cousins invited me to tag along on their adventures to Senegal and Gambia. I am really excited to start seeing other parts of West Africa.
- Work is going swimmingly. By the time i get back from vacation we will have already started a 6 week training for 2 very large groups of businessmen and women. It will take place here, in Kankan and Siguri a town about 2 hours from here. So until Sept. 13th, I'll be all over the place!
- Girls Conference is also coming up, along with the arrival of the new volunteers at site. Girls Conference was started long before my time as a volunteer, it takes place once a year. It was scheduled for June but there were some political problems that caused us to reschedule. However, each volunteer invites a girl from their village/town and they come to Kankan or Mamou for 5 days and learn about a variety of different things... from planning for the future, to health issues. I, along with Adam, are planning the Kankan Conference so its kind of my baby and I'm excited to see it finally happen.
- So turns out my illness from earlier in the month was a nice little cocktail of ameobas. It was nasty to say the least. I'm feeling better and hoping they decide not to resurface.
- There is real ice cream in Kankan. Real being a relative term. It is by no means anything like the ice cream we know, and speaking of ameobas it might even bring them back again, but for now its a nice, refreshing treat in the hot sticky mess that is Kankan in the rainy season.
For the moment thats all I can think of. I really need to be better about writing things down so I can tell you all about them. I'll post some pictures to make up for my lack of information. I'll be back sometime in mid-september. Until then, I love you all.
Tuesday, July 1, 2008
Sweet Home Pennsylvania
After sort of being a 'site rat' for a few weeks, I finally escaped to Conakry for some 4th of July festivities/medical problems. The medical problems are not as crazy as last time, but the bugs in Guinea LOVE me. Anyways, I blew into town yesterday much like the rains that roared throughout the night. Katie, Jess, Felipe and I scored a Peace Corps ride into town, and we manged lots of jolly ranchers and even listened to some Y100.... yes, my fellow Philadelphians, that is the Y100 our old radio station! I was so stoked and even though the tape was from 1999 I still rocked out to it in honor of my hometown. It felt like I was cruising the streets of Montco. Though every once in a while I was humbled by the site of goats, sheep, women carrying buckets and other various things on their heads and the ridiculous potholes that tossed and turned my poor stomach. But alas, I am here in once piece, albeit soaking wet. We haven't been getting much rain in Kankan, though it's supposedly the 'rainy season'. However, I was fully welcomed by the rains in Conakry, and soaked to my core.
Recent Happenings:
- Our Chauffer's wedding, I'm sure that I've mentioned this before...but he married his 2nd wife. Muslim's are allowed to have up to 4 wives, and Conde is well on his way.
- I met a monkey named Aminata. In the event you were unaware, Aminata is my African name.
- There have been some political problems, the teachers were striking, the military and police were feuding. Of course, there are still looming problems mais, c'est la guinee.
- Our Country Director and My APCD are leaving, and we've had quite a few staff changes. Also we are welcoming our new stage G 16 in a matter of days!
- My cat is super cute. I HATED cats before I came here but she keeps away bugs, rodents and cuddles with me at night. What more could I ask for?
- I am on my way to becoming the greatest Guinean cook ever. Ok, total lie. But I am trying. I learned how to make peanut sauce with Conde's first wife. Or I sat there and watched and occasionally got to stir.
- My house finally looks like a real house, or at least that someone lives there. I've been living out of a suitcase for the last 6 months.
Finally I will leave you with some pictures...
My first Mosque visit. Jean and I during the Religious Ceremony at Conde's wedding.
Recent Happenings:
- Our Chauffer's wedding, I'm sure that I've mentioned this before...but he married his 2nd wife. Muslim's are allowed to have up to 4 wives, and Conde is well on his way.
- I met a monkey named Aminata. In the event you were unaware, Aminata is my African name.
- There have been some political problems, the teachers were striking, the military and police were feuding. Of course, there are still looming problems mais, c'est la guinee.
- Our Country Director and My APCD are leaving, and we've had quite a few staff changes. Also we are welcoming our new stage G 16 in a matter of days!
- My cat is super cute. I HATED cats before I came here but she keeps away bugs, rodents and cuddles with me at night. What more could I ask for?
- I am on my way to becoming the greatest Guinean cook ever. Ok, total lie. But I am trying. I learned how to make peanut sauce with Conde's first wife. Or I sat there and watched and occasionally got to stir.
- My house finally looks like a real house, or at least that someone lives there. I've been living out of a suitcase for the last 6 months.
Finally I will leave you with some pictures...
My cat, Tiya De. It means Peanut Butter in Malinke. Guineans are mortified that I named my cat after a food item.
Conde and his 2nd blushing bride.
Butt touching at Conde's wedding. Felipe, Katie and I.
Katie, Jean and I looking lovely in our matching gear.
Breaking it down, Guinean Style.
The creator of my beautiful wedding attire, Mr. Sow.
Saturday, June 14, 2008
Rule No. 457543 Don't Make Impromptu Decisions
Why, you ask? Well I learned this the hard way. Last weekend I walked Alison down to the Gare so that she could get back to site, sitting there, with my 2 kittens in tow, I decided right there on the spot that I too would make the trek to Mandiana with her. I bought my ticket and then sat there for the next 5 hours waiting for the mini bus to load up, even though before I bought my ticket I decided that I did not want to ride in a mini bus, too late now. By the time I decided that I no longer wanted to go I was packed in the last row of the bus with my cats on my lap and Alison in the seat next to me. We were on the road in the slowest mini bus ever, 4 hours and 2 prayer stops in we were no where near Mandiana. I was fuming, and my kitties were going crazy. Alison, my voice of reason assured me we'd make it there evenutally. Finally 2 hours later, and the longest 6 hour journey ever we made it Mandiana. I was so happy to see Katie, bathe and use the bathroom. I guess I neglected to mention that I was having the worse case of diarrhea in country to date. But we made it one piece, my plan was to turn around and go home the following morning. Yeah right. I stayed until Monday morning and had a much more pleasant ride back to Kankan.
Back in the big city I helped my homologue with a formation for a bunch of villages surrounding Kankan, it was all in Malinke. I did a lot of reading and writing in my site journal. The formation isn't over until monday, I believe I've missed the last 4 days. Malinke land is just too much to handle right now.
In happier news my APCD Josh paid me a visit this week! Though this was his last visit to Kankan I was so happy to see him, and eat some of the best white beans and fillet capitan in city with him. I even got to see him dance. All in all a great site visit. Josh's contract is up at the end of July and I am terribly sad to see him go. I'll get to see him one last time in July and then hes off to the City of Brotherly Love! All my best to him and Elin.
MAIL RUN: THANK YOU'S must go out to Dave, Travis, Frank, Heather, Aunt Karen, Rachel and all the Lathams, Ryan and Alex, Kristi and the Borko's and Dad. This past mail run was the best ever. Thank you so much for thinking of me, and I make sure to eat every last bit of food. LOVE YOU ALL!
As for the rest of the month, I will be attending the marriage of our driver Conde on Tuesday. Myself and 5 other Haute volunteers are going and we have matching outfits for the occasion, I will be sure to take lots of pictures. Upon my return is Girls Conference. We have been working hard, and I almost have everything secured to make it a success, or at least I hope. You probably won't hear from me until next month in Conakry. So until then, go jump in the pool for me and have an icy cold glass of lemonade.
Back in the big city I helped my homologue with a formation for a bunch of villages surrounding Kankan, it was all in Malinke. I did a lot of reading and writing in my site journal. The formation isn't over until monday, I believe I've missed the last 4 days. Malinke land is just too much to handle right now.
In happier news my APCD Josh paid me a visit this week! Though this was his last visit to Kankan I was so happy to see him, and eat some of the best white beans and fillet capitan in city with him. I even got to see him dance. All in all a great site visit. Josh's contract is up at the end of July and I am terribly sad to see him go. I'll get to see him one last time in July and then hes off to the City of Brotherly Love! All my best to him and Elin.
MAIL RUN: THANK YOU'S must go out to Dave, Travis, Frank, Heather, Aunt Karen, Rachel and all the Lathams, Ryan and Alex, Kristi and the Borko's and Dad. This past mail run was the best ever. Thank you so much for thinking of me, and I make sure to eat every last bit of food. LOVE YOU ALL!
As for the rest of the month, I will be attending the marriage of our driver Conde on Tuesday. Myself and 5 other Haute volunteers are going and we have matching outfits for the occasion, I will be sure to take lots of pictures. Upon my return is Girls Conference. We have been working hard, and I almost have everything secured to make it a success, or at least I hope. You probably won't hear from me until next month in Conakry. So until then, go jump in the pool for me and have an icy cold glass of lemonade.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
fish fish fish fish
Haute Guinea is a magical place. The rainy season is knocking on the door, the flowers are in bloom, the grass is actually green and the fish fetes are in full swing. What is a fish fete you ask? Pull up a chair... During the dry season most of the tributaries of the Niger River dry up, leaving only these giant lakes, called Mar's (sp). The fish that live in the Mar's procreate, creating a nice little population in preparation for the big celebration. The month of May marks the end of the dry season, and as we all patiently await the rains, we celebrate by catching fish. A third year volunteer, Cathleen, graciously invited us to her former villages fish fete, the village is called Nounkounkan (noonkoonkan). Adam, Ciara, David and I hopped in a taxi, in our matching outfits to Nounkounkan. We arrived dirty, and sweaty per the usual but hopped out to be greated by Cathleen's host family. We said hello to everyone and awaited the arrival of Cathleen, who was out and about in the village and the others arriving with Steve our Country Director.
The village quadrupled in size with people coming from all the neighboring villages, Siguri and Kankan. We spent the earlier part of the day waiting for the others and walking around the villages shopping, eating and even sneaking in a quick nap. The festivities began with a dance of all the young women who are ready to be married. They danced through the market with their swords, making their way to where the drum ceremony would be held. We made our way over and were promptly greeted by one of the drummers and he escorted us to our seats. The funny thing about being an etranger (aka stranger or white person) in Guinea is that you get to sit in what we like to call the Patron seats. The drummer led us through the crowds of people to our seats at the head of the ceremony, where all the important people sit. We lounged in our seats and drank our coca colas and enjoyed quite a view of the drum ceremony. Drum troupes came from all over Haute. The group from Baro (near Kankan) was my favorite. The danced in elaborate costumes, and we finally got to see the masks that we've been told are seen in Haute. They drummed until dark, and continued on through the night. After we ate dinner and did some star gazing we headed back to the drum circles then off to an all night dance party. We danced almost until morning, or until 2 am. I was exhausted, we left so early, had a long day and needed to get up early because the fete-ing was far from over.
We woke the next morning to the sound of women singing, tradition I guess but it was so early! The troops were rounded and we set out into town in search of caffine. There are bar cafes all over guinea where you can enjoy a nice cup of sugary lipton tea or even coffee, should you dare. After recharging we grabbed our fishing nets, Steve our Country Director and headed off to the drum ceremony (yes there was another one). The ceremony of course, would not start for hours so we entertained ourselves as well as about 200 Guineans by singing Row, Row, Row your boat, Down by the bay, and the DJ played some music for us and we danced in the middle of a huge circle but alas it was time for the ceremony. The 'facilitators' cleared out some space for the dancers and it began. The drum ceremony was the precede the fishing. The drum troupes came out and danced as well as some of my fellow volunteers and the the masses made their way towards the mar. There were nets, buckets and these bird cage looking things everywhere... we were reading to get fishing. The fishing begins with the firing of a gun and then everyone goes charging into the mar/lake/bog like thing. Its incredibly muddy and disgusting but I've never had so much fun in my life. Ciara and I started out with a net and finally got the technique down and we started catching fish! Mostly we caught mud, but there were fish in there. Adam and I ganged up with Kim another volunteer and tried to maximize net space, catching quite a few fish that way, and we even let a big one slip through our fingers. We fished until we couldn't fish anymore and made our way through the muck to the shore and finally back to our lodging. We were covered from head to toe. We unsuccessfully cleaned off, ate some rice and got back in the cab to come home. We made it back to Kankan in one piece, though exhausted. We looked through every last picture (there are over 1200!), recounted our favorite memories, laughed a David's sunburn, which looked like paint splashes all over his back and finally drifted off to a fish filled sleep. The next morning we all decided that were going to every last fish fete next year because it was so much fun, and because I feel like I can do the fete justice so I've posted pictures, be sure to check out my Picasa (where I keep all my photos)! Enjoy
The village quadrupled in size with people coming from all the neighboring villages, Siguri and Kankan. We spent the earlier part of the day waiting for the others and walking around the villages shopping, eating and even sneaking in a quick nap. The festivities began with a dance of all the young women who are ready to be married. They danced through the market with their swords, making their way to where the drum ceremony would be held. We made our way over and were promptly greeted by one of the drummers and he escorted us to our seats. The funny thing about being an etranger (aka stranger or white person) in Guinea is that you get to sit in what we like to call the Patron seats. The drummer led us through the crowds of people to our seats at the head of the ceremony, where all the important people sit. We lounged in our seats and drank our coca colas and enjoyed quite a view of the drum ceremony. Drum troupes came from all over Haute. The group from Baro (near Kankan) was my favorite. The danced in elaborate costumes, and we finally got to see the masks that we've been told are seen in Haute. They drummed until dark, and continued on through the night. After we ate dinner and did some star gazing we headed back to the drum circles then off to an all night dance party. We danced almost until morning, or until 2 am. I was exhausted, we left so early, had a long day and needed to get up early because the fete-ing was far from over.
We woke the next morning to the sound of women singing, tradition I guess but it was so early! The troops were rounded and we set out into town in search of caffine. There are bar cafes all over guinea where you can enjoy a nice cup of sugary lipton tea or even coffee, should you dare. After recharging we grabbed our fishing nets, Steve our Country Director and headed off to the drum ceremony (yes there was another one). The ceremony of course, would not start for hours so we entertained ourselves as well as about 200 Guineans by singing Row, Row, Row your boat, Down by the bay, and the DJ played some music for us and we danced in the middle of a huge circle but alas it was time for the ceremony. The 'facilitators' cleared out some space for the dancers and it began. The drum ceremony was the precede the fishing. The drum troupes came out and danced as well as some of my fellow volunteers and the the masses made their way towards the mar. There were nets, buckets and these bird cage looking things everywhere... we were reading to get fishing. The fishing begins with the firing of a gun and then everyone goes charging into the mar/lake/bog like thing. Its incredibly muddy and disgusting but I've never had so much fun in my life. Ciara and I started out with a net and finally got the technique down and we started catching fish! Mostly we caught mud, but there were fish in there. Adam and I ganged up with Kim another volunteer and tried to maximize net space, catching quite a few fish that way, and we even let a big one slip through our fingers. We fished until we couldn't fish anymore and made our way through the muck to the shore and finally back to our lodging. We were covered from head to toe. We unsuccessfully cleaned off, ate some rice and got back in the cab to come home. We made it back to Kankan in one piece, though exhausted. We looked through every last picture (there are over 1200!), recounted our favorite memories, laughed a David's sunburn, which looked like paint splashes all over his back and finally drifted off to a fish filled sleep. The next morning we all decided that were going to every last fish fete next year because it was so much fun, and because I feel like I can do the fete justice so I've posted pictures, be sure to check out my Picasa (where I keep all my photos)! Enjoy
Tuesday, May 20, 2008
Welcome Home...
I am finally back in Kankan after a very long hiatus. Me and a few fellow Hauters did a quick tournee, making stops in Kissidougou, Tokano and Koumban and finally made it back to Kankan on saturday night. Of course it wouldn't be home without a proper welcome. We were cheerfully greeted by the ever smiling and crazy Felipe, he was blasting Lionel Richie to welcome us... we set down our bags and caught up for a while. Our regional coordinator came over to welcome us home and at that moment I remembered I had left a bunch of packages in my trunk. I was so excited to eat some jellybeans and put on a clean pair of pants. Little did I know there would be a few surprises waiting for me. I opened the trunk and a family of mice had taken up residence! I screamed mostly out of shock, ok mostly out of fear, and everyone came running. The trunk was taken outside and we started removing the rest of the things to make sure there were no more, and of course we found a monster of a mouse living in my bag of books. At least he was trying to bone up on business techinques. Needless to say the mice ate most of my medication, they were probably really drowsy from the benadryl and must had a stomach ache after that because they ate my Tums too. Jerks.
In even weirder news, Adam, Felipe and I were walking through town on sunday and we saw a huge crowd of children. We had no idea what was going on until we saw that a man had a chimpanze on a leash! He was parading him around town and of course he spotted the only 3 white people in town and started yelling at us, telling us we MUST say hello to the chimp (and give him money, of course). Felipe took off, and that left Adam and I... we had no where to go. The man and the chimp had us pinned up against a building. I am pretty sure we both saw our lives flash before our eyes. We had no idea what this chimp was about to do. Well the chimp just mosied on up to us with his hand out, he just wanted to shake our hands. We begrudingly shook his hand (and didn't give him any money) and he went on his way. It was so crazy! We told everyone about it and weren't sure they would believe us. I'm not sure if we even believe it happened. Life in Guinea... it's full of surprises.
In even weirder news, Adam, Felipe and I were walking through town on sunday and we saw a huge crowd of children. We had no idea what was going on until we saw that a man had a chimpanze on a leash! He was parading him around town and of course he spotted the only 3 white people in town and started yelling at us, telling us we MUST say hello to the chimp (and give him money, of course). Felipe took off, and that left Adam and I... we had no where to go. The man and the chimp had us pinned up against a building. I am pretty sure we both saw our lives flash before our eyes. We had no idea what this chimp was about to do. Well the chimp just mosied on up to us with his hand out, he just wanted to shake our hands. We begrudingly shook his hand (and didn't give him any money) and he went on his way. It was so crazy! We told everyone about it and weren't sure they would believe us. I'm not sure if we even believe it happened. Life in Guinea... it's full of surprises.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
... and getting caught in the rain
IST is slowly wrapping up, and its almost time to head back to site. For me, since getting sick, I've been away from site for almost 5 weeks. I am having terrible anxiety about going back because it feels like the first time all over again. Although I'm having major anxiety I am ready to go back, I have so many ideas for projects and can't wait to get started. Also in late June Girl's Conference is coming up, and I along with David and Adam are lucky enough to be in charge of the conference in Haute Guinea. Needless to say we have a very busy 5 weeks ahead of us.
In other news David's counterpart arrived with glorious news, besides the fact that he tells me I'm skinny all the time. I don't even care that hes lying, it makes me feel good. And whatever works right? Anyway I finally have a cat! His counterpart's cat had 3 babies and I get one of them. I chose a female and I think I am going to name her Tiya, which is Peanut in Malinke. I guess I should wait and see what she looks like...though most Guinean cats look the same.
Also the rainy season is in full swing. We've had some wicked rain storms in the Fouta, also I've heard Kankan has been getting its fair share as well. I am a little nervous because there is a hole in my ceiling and when I last returned my living room was full of water. I have my regional coordinator on the case, and hopefully he can save the day... or just most of my stuff from being ruined.
I've also posted a bunch of pictures and have more to come, and I know a few of you have asked for the link... without further ado...
http://picasaweb.google.com/amy.hylinski/PeaceCorpsTheFirst5Months
I haven't had a chance to comment on the pics, so if you have questions just ask... or better yet I'll just leave it up to your imagination.
In other news David's counterpart arrived with glorious news, besides the fact that he tells me I'm skinny all the time. I don't even care that hes lying, it makes me feel good. And whatever works right? Anyway I finally have a cat! His counterpart's cat had 3 babies and I get one of them. I chose a female and I think I am going to name her Tiya, which is Peanut in Malinke. I guess I should wait and see what she looks like...though most Guinean cats look the same.
Also the rainy season is in full swing. We've had some wicked rain storms in the Fouta, also I've heard Kankan has been getting its fair share as well. I am a little nervous because there is a hole in my ceiling and when I last returned my living room was full of water. I have my regional coordinator on the case, and hopefully he can save the day... or just most of my stuff from being ruined.
I've also posted a bunch of pictures and have more to come, and I know a few of you have asked for the link... without further ado...
http://picasaweb.google.com/amy.hylinski/PeaceCorpsTheFirst5Months
I haven't had a chance to comment on the pics, so if you have questions just ask... or better yet I'll just leave it up to your imagination.
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