Update

Well as of this past sunday, Oct. 25 my Peace Corps service was officially over. I don't know how many of you have been following the news but the Peace Corps program in Guinea has been suspended. Not to use the word evaucation, but for lack of better word, we were evacuated from Guinea in the beginning of October and brought to Bamako, Mali. The reason for our departure was due to the political situation in Guinea.

I'll give you a bried overview of whats been happening in Guinea...

- December 23, 2008 former President Lansana Conte died. Captain Moussa Dadis Camara came to power in a bloodless coup d'etat.

- Before Conte's death elections were scheduled for 2010. After the coup elections were put on hold, and the consitution was also suspeded.

- Since Dadis came into power the international community has not been happy, not wanting to support a military leader and pushing for elections.

- Elections are scheduled for January, Febuary and legislative elections in March. Dadis has refused to say whether or not he will run in the elections. Further angering the international community.

- The African Union gave Dadis a month to decided whether or not he will run, he 'accidentally' missed the deadline.

- Sept. 28, 2009 there was an Anti-Dadis rally in one of the stadiums in Conakry, the military got wind and troops were sent there. They opened fire on the people, women were raped and the number of those killed is still unknown.

- The following friday the bodies of those killed were brought to the grande mosque. The family and friends of the deceased showed up to identify their loved ones, only to find that not all of the bodies had been brought.

- After the massacre the international community called for Dadis to make a decision on his candidacy. Hilary Clinton spoke out about the violence, and member of the State Department was sent to negotiate with Dadis.

- The embassy evacuated all non-essential personnel to Dakar. They were put there until futher notice, but as of now have been sent home.

- The State Department called for the evacuation of Peace Corps volunteers.

- The conditions for the return of Peace Corps Volunteers to Guinea is a peaceful transition to power. Which means Dadis does not remain in power.

- Dadis still has not said whether or not he will run, and he has decided to turn the decision over to Blaise Compare (the President of Burkina Faso).

- Food prices are rising and the value of the Franc Guinean is falling.

-People are calling for more strikes because of the violence of Sept 28.


That is pretty much all I can remember. I'm sure that I missed somethings, and am not completely accurate. But you get the gist. The Peace Corps program is suspened until further notice, and it is unclear whether or not the program will reopen. Everyone is trying to remain hopeful.

As for me, I am now living and trying to find work in Bamako. I am living with a wonderful family, who taking great care of me. So rest assured I am in good hands. I am not sure how long I am planning to be here but I'll keep you all posted. I miss everyone and thanks for following my adventures in Guinea and here's to new adventures in Mali!!

Vive La Guinee!

Rainy Season; Conakry style

babies, baptisms and ramadan...oh my

With ramadan in full swing, I am attempting to fast. I tried last year and lasted two weeks, lets see if I can beat it. Before the scared month, weddings were a plenty and the much anticipated baptism of Conde's newest son took place. I've posted pics, enjoy and happy eating!





playing the calabashs' as drums.

Dousou and her family

Ceremony

the cow, just before he was cut up and eaten.

my best friend Dousou, Mamady (her son) and me

the guests and the rides.

the other 4 guests of honor. laye, baba, sekou dinni, and ba solo.

my breakfast, rice, sauce and whole lot of meat.

mamady, getting ready for his big day. napping while bathing.

getting ready... all those bowls are filled with rice.

April showers bring May...showers.

With the month of May come and gone, June has started off relatively quietly. Kankan is still the dustiest place around but the good news is the rain has started! Sort of. We get rain every few days, and sometimes it just threatens and does nothing. Scary, none the less.

The school year is coming to a close and I have been teaching less and less. Exams are happening in a few weeks and the students are studying, ou bien finishing up class and begging for better grades. There is something to be said about the grading system here, and for fear of getting severely worked up about it, I will spare you. But within the next month Kankan will clear out, literally. The students will all head home or to Conakry to spend their summer vacation. Everyone thinks I am leaving too. They all ask, 'And where will you go for vacation, America?' I guess they forgot I already went home for break.

I am impatiently awaiting the arrival of Jean and her cat Moose. Jean is the coordinator of this years Girls Conference and I am here to aid her when needed. Also, I haven't seen her since March. So, I am excited to see her and the new litter of kitties that Moose had just a week ago.

Fish Fete was in the month of May and I went to the one in Baro this year. It is the fish fete of all fish fetes. There was about a bazillion people there and so many white people I didn't know what to do! We took up resident at the Sous-Prefet's house (there is really no equivalent in english, he's like a sub-regional administrator that presides over a larger village and some smaller villages in the area. Really, its hard to explain). Anyway, we stayed there, and turns out I knew him from before. He is also a Kaba, so we hit it off right away. He and his wife fed us, introduced us to all the important people and basically we're like our adopted parents for the weekend. We has some first timers with us, so it was nice to share the experience with non-Hauters. Even if we did show up without fishing nets! Whoops!

I do have to announce that after my cat decided to use my entire house as a toilet (twice, in one day). She is no longer living in the house. She frolics around the compound and my neighborhood but she is banned from the house. She has made a few feeble attempts to return. But, mostly, I hear her crying from the roof, or outside. She is SO rude.

Other than that after a group of visitors came through Kankan life has been pretty quiet. Just sweltering in the heat and hoping everyday that it will rain! I did take some pictures of a ceremony that happened a few weeks ago. Complete with videos. I'll be sure to post them sometime. I can't promise when, but hopefully before my service is over!

Sidikoroma

Sidikoroma, the birth village of one of my most favorite people in Guinea.
Sidikoroma, a beaten path off the main road.
Sidikoroma, a village that comes to life out of the forest that thrives around it.
Sidikoroma, full of Conde's.

I didn't even know the proper name until about 24 hours ago, and this village had just recently come up in conversation. As many of you know I've pretty much been adopted by the family of our driver here in Haute Guinea. I eat dinner with his family just about every night, spend most of my free time there, and love all their children to death. I had orginally thought Conde was from a village called Tokounou. We attended his marriage there, and I've met various 'family' members when passing through. I've even enjoyed a suprisingly good meal or two of bush rat. But I had come to learn not too long ago that he was actually born in a smaller village not far from Tokounou. He had been saying also for a while that we would go to visit to so that I could see his birthplace. Well yesteday that day finally came.

Conde had notified another Peace Corps car that was passing through Tokounou to let some people know that we would be coming down and going to the other village. That way we wouldn't just surprise them. So yesterday bright and early I set off for the office. We arrived to find a slew of volunteers and they weren't even from Guinea! Mali and Burkina Faso we represented and my friend Katy and her friend Traci returned from their Kenyan adventure. So it was nice to see some new faces and to have Katy and Traci back in Kankan. We did the rounds and dropped people off to find taxis and go to the bank and then tried to find gas. Little did we know that there is NO gas in Kankan. After trying just about every station, we finally found one last gas station that had some diesel and we took what we could and headed out. We were making moves and then all of a sudden we were turning around back to Kankan, I was anxious to get on the road because here in Guinea I get terribly car sick...especially when I have to sit sideways in the back of the car. We returned quickly to the Peace Corps office grabbed what we needed and were back on the road.

By noon we made it to Tokounou and luckily, Levi, the volunteer there had just finished school and could go with us. So we picked him up from the side of the road and continued on. We turned off on an almost invisible road. If we weren't looking for it I would've never known it was there! The road was barely even a road, it was filled with rocks and craters, and kind of just materialized out of the brush surrounding it. It was supposedly only 15 Km to the village but it seemed like forever. We finally came to a stop and there were a few de-constructed huts and people sitting around, I said hello to them and then turned around only to find that we were at a river and we're going to have to cross it. For a second I thought we would be taking pirogues, or hollowed out trees that serve as canoes across the river, and then I saw the barge. Conde steered the car down the steep hill and onto the barge, however, the water was so shallow we could've just walked. Mory, our regional coordinator, told me I shouldn't since I'm prone to skin infections. He's on the ball, this guy. Slowly but surely we made it to the other side, to the guy in charge of the barge that we'd be back and continued down the windy 'road'. We passed through 2 villages and then finally in the middle of about a million mango trees was Sidikoroma.

The Peace Corps car pulls in and in true fashion the entire village comes running. I turned to Levi and told him that it had been a while since I was swarmed by village children. Thus, I took a deep breath in preparation. As soon as I stepped down from the car a million hands came at me. I shook each one and said hello, and then was promptly seated in the front of the entire village along with Levi, Mory and Conde, the real guest of honor. The villagers surrounded us, and I heard many whispers about the 'tobabou's' (white people, in malinke) who had come to visit. We we welcomed by the village elders and then I heard the music. We were in for a treat, Sidikoroma had pulled out all the stops and arranged for drumming and dancing. The drummers and womean came dancing in and the old village men even jumped up to partake. After the dancing we got down to business and Conde and Mory explained why we were there, since Levi and I aren't fluent Malinke speakers (yet!). After we were led around the village for a while, then sat down and enjoyed some fresh cow milk and sugar. It was actually kind of good, but after the bumpy road my stomach wasn't up for a big challenged so I took a few sips and said I was full. We then returned to our seats at the head of the circle, and were thanked and there was more dancing...And Conde was given a sheep to take home as a gift for the village. After I was coaxed into dancing one more time we loaded the sheep in the car and then headed back toward the main road.

I have to say that it was my first trip ever with animal inside the car. Usually they are strapped to the top, but for some reason this guy got to ride in style. It was certainly an experience, I can still here him 'baaaa-ing'. The sheep also took it upon himself to poop and pee all over the car, no surprise there really. However the real suprise was when the sheep started eating my hair and close. He must have been hungry, and I must have been to his liking. In any case, it was gross. Sheep slobber in my hair, yuck!

We arrived back in Kankan and I was beat! I ran in the house and showered immediately. Then crashed into bed. I rested for a bit and then met up with Katy and Traci for dinner. We had way too much food, and my stomach finally had calmed from the voyage so I ate everything. Then I sent Katy and Traci on there way and said good-bye for they were leaving Kankan the next day. I went home and promptly went to sleep, only to be woken up by the heat! It was the hottest night ever. But drifted back off to dream land with sounds of sheep baa-ing in my head.







This picture was taken by one of the villagers...

The drummers and singers.

Some of the villagers of Sidikoroma

Conde and Mory, the dynamic duo of Haute Guinea

Conde taking care of business, and the barge.

the heat is getting to my brain!

Well it has certainly been a while, and I can't say that much has been going on. I know I should have a better excuse for not writing but... c'est la vie. Anyways life here in Kankan is getting hotter by the minute! I'm literally counting the minutes until the rainy season in hopes of some relief, and better sleeping!



I think I forgot to mention that I am now teaching english at the university here in Kankan. It's great. My students keep me on my toes, and exhaust me. But I am really enjoying it. I am teaching for classes of conversational english with a wide range of levels and various majors. They all would like to to know why I'm not married, what the difference is between like and love and does 60 minutes actually mean 1 hour...



I've spent a few weeks in Conakry, one week in March and another just recently. In March I went down to see the dentist, that was a lovely experience. It reminded me why I hate the dentist in America. But my teeth are health and clean, so no worries there. This past week was spring break here, so I took the opportunity to escape to Conarky again. Me and a few other volunteers hired a taxi to take us there, and me being the taxi snob that I am, that was only my second journey to Conakry in a bush taxi. Frankly two times is more than enough for me :)! Upon our arrival we went straight to the beach bar and hung out with the education volunteers, most of whom I'd never met. So it was nice to see some fresh faces. Jean and I ventured around downtown Conarky and discovered the best Chwarma in town.... and pastries for that matter. The place was owned by a bunch of Turkish guys and they invited us to eat with them, and even invited us to a "real" Turkish BBQ. Unfortunately we never made it to the BBQ but the invitation was really nice, and now every time I go to Conakry I can get some tea and a fudge and creme puff sundae.



As for now I am in back in Kankan and it looks like a totally different city! The government has decided that all stores, restaurants, etc close to the road need to be removed. So the streets have opened up and walls are being put up... I was only gone a week but it looks like a different place than when I left. They even repared the bridge that leads to Mandiana and Sabadou Baranama... change is brewing here in good old Kankan. Other than that I had my first non-haute visitors tuesday night, Katy and her friend Traci from America spent the night with me, and yesterday morning they whisked off to Bamako and then off to Kenya.



I wish I had more excitement to share with all of you but for now I'm waiting for classes to resume, and looking for a secondary project to keep me busy when school is out. I know I also forgot to mention that my official counterpart accepted another job, so sadly I have little to do with M.G.E. at the moment. I'm not abadoning them completely, no no, I am just trying to finish out the school year and hopefully pick up where I left off at MGE. As for the secondary project you all might be hearing from me soon, I'll be in need of your help for some of the projects I have planned. I'll try my darndest to keep you all informed more often. I haven't been taking many pictures either, I am such a bad pen pal! But I will try to take more as well. Until then...

Another year older...

Another birthday come and gone, another year older. Thanks to everyone who called, wrote and facebooked me, I love and miss you all.

This birthday was definitely like any other. Last years was a total bummer, my first year in Africa, my first time at site alone...anyways not to be a downer. But this year, now thats a whole other story. Me and a few other volunteers decided to escape the city of Kankan for the weekend and head to Sabadou Baranama. It is the site of another volunteer, Alex, but unfortunately he wasn't there. But he got us in touch with a french family that lives out there and also happens to be in charge of a park. A park in fact that protects endangered animals.

We hired a taxi and started our journey on friday, unfortunately we forgot that they were working on the only bridge out of town in that direction and we couldn't cross. bummer. But the following morning after a delicious carrot cake made by yours truly, we made the trek to Sabadou. Now I do have to say that communication is difficult here and we kind of showed up unannounced, however not to fear the french family was there to welcome us and put us up in their hotel for the night. We ate good food, swam in their pool, checked out some animals and I made a new friend. Her name is Mookie and shes a chimpanze. Pretty much all of my pictures are of her and I will post them to make you jealous. She was the funniest, most curious primate ever and we bonded. I was sad to leave her behind, even if she did fart on me when I first met her.

Without further ado... Mookie.





Me and Mooks hanging out in the hammock

Cleaning up Jeans hair

So cute

Sporting my shades.

Run around sue...

I can't believe that I've been back a month, some days it feels like minutes others it feels like years. The hot season is back in swing and oh mylanta georgia did it come quickly. A week or so ago I was sleeping with a fleece blanket and now along with the Harmatan winds the HOT season back and I am unable to sleep. Maybe its the shock to my body, but I am having the hardest time sleeping but at least I'm reading a lot. My cat is doing much better, no more episodes mostly because I won't let her out of the house. But I think its time Tiya de gets a good talking to.

Work is work. I'm frustrated un peu at the moment, mostly because we were supposed to give a business training months ago and it has yet to happen. It's really my first hand look at the corruption in this country. Now don't get me wrong I love it here, but whats been happening over the past few weeks has been seriously discouraging. I'll give you a brief overview. My organization M.G.E, AACG and ADAPE have been giving business trainings together over the past few months. M.G.E gave the training in Siguiri, AACG gave thier part in Kissidougou and now we are waiting on ADAPE here in Kankan. He have been chasing around the guy that is handling the training here and he keeps giving us the run around. Since November he's been saying that there will be a training, and until now nothing but talk. Two or three times a week me and my counterpart have been stopping by and he keeps saying next week, oh the next week we'll do the training. And now hes gone off the Conakry. He was already given the money... and as much as I don't want to speculate... how can I not? I know I'm not supposed to point fingers and accuse and I don't want to. But, I am really disappointed. It is also giving my organization and AACG a bad rap, because he's trying to pull a fast one on both of us. The 3 organizations are responsible for the trainings and the donor of the money has trusted us to go through with it. But what can I do? My counterpart is discouraged and the representative from AACG is out of the loop because the guys from ADAPE don't even bother to inform him what's going on. In all its a bad scene. My only hope is that he comes through and changes my mind. Though my view of him is already tarnished.

In other not to solemn news the new group of volunteers will be heading out to their sites this weekend. I believe they swear in tomorrow, and then get to do all the fun shopping for their sites. A bunch of current volunteers is there to help, as for the rest of us we'll be waiting for them at the regional capitals. I've been lucky enough to help out with their training and they are a great group of volunteers. I can't believe I've been in Kankan for a year, its truly been incredible. I can't wait to see them a year from now. I wish them all the best at their sites, and to my SEDers Du courage!

For the moment, thats all I've got. Nothing too exciting going on here but I'll be sure to keep you posted more frequently. Don't forget in a few short days is my.... BIRTHDAY. Shameless yes, but come on people I'm in Africa. An be.

Here kitty kitty

It seems my new years resolution to keep up with my blog has gone out the window. I'm back safe and sound in Guinea. I'm sure some of you have read about the Coup that happened over christmas but all is calm for the moment. People seem surprisingly happy for the change, and there is noticeable differences... well trash for the most part. I got back to Conakry and was downtown and couldn't believe how clean the streets were and that there were actual places (pseudo-trashcans) to put the trash! But as everyone keeps saying On va voir (we'll see...).

Back in Kankan life at first was overwhelming, as I expected. Though I've been back for a bit and people are still asking me where their gifts from America are. We had the new group of volunteers roll through for a few days, doing their site visits. I will have new site mate who is also a business volunteer. He also happens to be from Philly. Other than that I'm back to business as usual. Me and my partner organization are back to giving trainings and we are in the process of looking to start some new ones. So we have a lot on our plate but I'm glad to be busy.

I did experience one of the grossest things ever, and if you have a weak stomach...I'd stop reading. I was so excited to see my cat when I got back, I thought she'd be as equally excited. I think she forgot who I was for a while... I finally got her home and she disappeared for a few days, used to life on her own I guess. She finally came back on monday night and was being super clingy, I thought maybe she finally missed me enough to come home. Boy was I wrong. I was so so tired and after almost eating bugs on two seperate occasions I decided to call it a night. I finally got to sleep and a few hours later there was all this commotion under my bed. Begrudgingly I went to get out of bed and as I went to step down, I saw it. At first it looked like someone had been massacred on my floor but there it was... a cat fetus. I guess I should've mentioned first that she was pregnant but that would've ruined everything, but she did in fact miscarry all over my floor. It was by far the grossest thing I have ever seen. So gross in fact I spent the next few minutes vomitting...and then I got to clean up. I threw the cat out of the house along with the remains, cleaned the heck out of everything else and got myself back in bed. Only then did I realize that there might be something under the bed because thats where all the noise had come from. I gave up and tried to go back to sleep, and try to get rid of the nausea before the morning. I woke up and was terrified to find more dead cats under the bed. I called my friend Cathleen and she was nice enough to come over and do the dirty work for me. Thankfully there was nothing but a bit of blood, which I will most definitely take over what I had found the night before.