Friday, December 19, 2008

Happy Holidays

I can't believe a year has come and gone. I also can't believe that I'm back in America! My parents were nice enough to fly me home for the holidays, so for the next three weeks I'll be firmly planted in front of my laptop stuffing my face full of delicious food. Now many of you have been asking what have I eaten thus far. Well without further ado... cheese, home fries, a sausage, egg, and cheese sandwich, peanut m&ms, chocolate chip cookies, a wawa turkey hoagie complete with turkey, pickles and honey mustard, baked lays and vanilla creme soda. I've only been home for a few days so I'm working on the list, and hope to gain about 400 pounds while I'm here (not literally). But if any of you are in the greater philadelphia area I'll be home until Jan 4th. Happy Holidays to everyone and if I don't catch you at the end of 2008/beginning of 2009, I'll catch you back in 2010!




Tuesday, November 18, 2008

Somebody get me a blanket!

I've been hearing all this talk of the 'cold season' and it is on its way. The nights have gotten colder, so cold in fact, that I sleep with a fleece blanket. No, I'm not kidding and its actually quite pleasant. I wake up in the morning with a nice chill, then as the day goes on I work up a sweat. But I'll be MIA in a few short days. The new group of volunteers arrives the beginning of December and I was chosen to help train them. I'll be spending Thanksgiving in Conakry and then off to do the first two weeks of training. I'll have phone service but won't have internet until after the 12th of December. But I've been promising pictures, so without further a do....


the Diallo's, and Dalo, my neighbors/fam.

My neighbors Hawa and Dalo, and my favorite little brother Alpha.


My second favorite, Papi.


I can never remember his name, but hes adorable.



Chez Moi, after I gave the neighborhood kids candy.




Conde's kids, obvi my favorite kids of all time.

My neighbors, hanging out in my door way.




Guinean supporters of Barack Obama.


Tumani, the Ice cream guy.


The University of Kankan.



The road that leads to my house... well, sort of.













Sunday, October 12, 2008

N bara tunu

I can't believe how long its been since I last wrote, sorry to keep all of you waiting. If you're wondering what the title of my post means, its 'i was lost' in Malinke. Moving along with the title I'll tell you what I've been up to since August.

I got back from Gambia and Senegal, in probably one of, if not the most painful rides ever. I would've liked to dedicate and entire post to the trip but as not to dust off old wounds we'll keep it short. Don't get me wrong the Gambia was fantastic, granted we didn't leave our fantastic hotel for the entire stay but it was well deserved. I can't thank Liz's cousins Anna and Neils enough for putting us up and allowing me to have an incredible vacation. Anyways Liz and I needed to hightail it back to Guinea for a conference so we left with what we thought was plenty of time. Ha, little did we know there were other things in store for us. We left the Gambia on a Saturday and promptly arrived in Guinea on Wednesday. 4 days of hell, in a fully loaded bush taxi not just with 37 people, but complete with luggage and some monkeys just for fun. When we finally made it to our conference it was almost over, and we made quite and entrance. I'm almost positive that our smell proceeded our actual arrival, but we did receive quite a few looks (mostly of disgust). The next morning I piled back into a bush taxi, something I swore I wouldn't do for a very long time, and headed back to Kankan. I should mention that during our adventure across three african countries I acquired a very nasty infection on my feet. I'm not sure of the exact source but I had horrible kankles (swollen ankles, for you PC people out there), and I was oozing something fierce once I finally planted myself on stable ground. I called our trusty PCMO (doctor) and after much debate and briefly meeting the new group of volunteers, I was back in the car on my way to Conakry. I was thrilled to be traveling again. Though this time luckily I was in a Peace Corps car so it wasn't awful, but the anticipation of my diagnosis in Conakry made the ride a little long, to say the least. Upon my arrival in Conakry I was lucky enough to spend 3 days in the hospital, still with no diagnosis. Our doctor was up country, and the hospital staff was less than up to par. But I was glad to be stationary and in air conditioning and being feed decently. As soon as the doctor was back in Conakry he brought me snacks and water and assured me that I'd be out of the hospital soon and be able to spend the rest of my stay in Conakry in the Peace Corps compound. He came to retrieve me and sure enough I was back in Peace Corps land. It was nice to see my fellow PCV's of course they were not shocked to see me in Conakry with some weird skin infection. I spent the rest of my days in Conakry confined to the house because of the rain, and risking further infection. So I watched A LOT of movies and caught up on some much needed sleep. I was cleared to head back to Kankan a week later. I left Conakry in a Peace Corps car with Balde the Driver, Boiro the Regional Coordinator of Labe and Daffe our Regional Coordinator in Haute, along with a few other passengers. The plan was to meet our car from Kankan in Mamou, which is roughly halfway across the country and go the rest of the way with Conde. Unfortunately about 2 hours into our journey we found out that the Kankan car had broken down about 15km outside of Kankan and that the Conakry car would be taking us the rest of the way. The driver was not happy but we refeuled and continued on. As it was getting dark and we were almost back to Kankan we say 4-way flashers on the side of the road....it was the Kankan Peace Corps car! Poor Conde, along with his niece and cousin, who had hoped to go to Conakry, had been stuck on the side of the road in the middle of no where since 8 in the morning! Our car stopped and we moved the car from the side of the road so that we could retrieve it in the morning. We piled back into the car and headed home. I was delighted.

Finally back in Kankan I got right down to business, my organization was in the middle of a 6 week training and I had already missed half of it and they were anxious to have me back. I spent about 3 days in Kankan only to turn around and head to Siguri for a week to finish off the training there. Also on top of that my organization was in a hurry to finish up because the month of Ramadan was right around the corner. We came and left Siguri in a flash, I headed right back to Conakry with my organization to finish up work there. Let me backtrack a bit, in case you didn't know Ramadan is an entire month of fasting. Muslims across the globe wake up at 4:30 am to eat, then fast all day long, and finally are allowed to eat again at around 7 pm. Let me tell you that everyone is SO cranky. Not only are they cranky but hardly any work get done. I also tried to fast and made it about 12 days and decided it wasn't for me. But because there is hardly anything going on during Ramadan everyone asks you if you are fasting, and thats about it. Ramadan finally came to an end about 10 days ago and its like a new light has been lit over Kankan, its nice to see people happy and chatty again, just like normal.

Towards the end of Ramadan a new group of volunteers were sworn in, out here in Haute we have 8 newbies. They are all education volunteers. We welcomed them with a lot of rain (not by choice!) and lots of good food before we packed them up and shipped them off to site just in time for the school year to begin. The kids went around and met the officials, did some shopping and finally departed Kankan to make their respective villages their new homes. My heart goes out to one volunteer in a village very dear to my heart, Levi in Tokounou. Poor Levi, he had no idea when he was going to his village because at the end of Ramadan there is a big party (well I'll say big, but leave it to your imagination) and no one works, they just eat themselves silly because they've been starving for 30 days. So Levi had to hold tight until the festivities were over, and then he could go to site. Unfortunately for Levi, there was a fete (or party) immediately following the end of Ramadan fete. But we decided to pack him up and head to his village anyway, the fete on October 2nd, was independence day for Guinea. So again nothing was open and no one was working. I even got wind that in Kankan the military was going around town forcing people to close their shops and celebrate their independence (so much for freedom, right?). We arrived in Tokounou, oh yes, I went to help him move in, and there was no one to be found. We had to go around the village and track people down and when the door was finally opened to Levi's hut it was a mess! The mattress was disgusting, for lack of a better word, and his roof was about to fall in! When everyone was finally mobilized Daffe, the regional coordinator, lost it on the village. He was so mad, because the village had had enough time to prepare for his arrival with plenty of reminders. Even more angry was Conde, our driver. Tokounou is Conde's birth village and he was extremely disappointed. Levi is Tokounou's third volunteer so it's not like this is something new for them. Well Conde let all the officials and others know just how made he was. All of this was happening in Malinke, and I'm sure most it went over Levi's head. I tried to translate as best as I could, then took it upon myself to try and clean up his hut a big. Armed with a gang of children I got down to business. It was ok for the time being but we made the village get right on fixing his roof and finding another mattress. In certain cases, if the village isn't ready the volunteer will be taken back to the regional capital until is ready, or if the volunteer decides they want to change sites. Fortunately for Levi , hes a good kid and was ready to take on Tokounou. He even got out his guitar and started playing for everyone so as to distract some of the tension. We piled back into the car said good-bye to Levi, and I hope he's doing well.

Back in Kankan I was in full swing planning Girls Conference. I was lucky enough to be the coordinator for this regional conference and was responsible for getting it off without a hitch. Ha. Girls Conference was originally supposed have happened in June, but due to some military problems it was postponed, it was then rescheduled for August, but much to my delight a few volunteers in my region fought really hard to have it pushed back so that I could be present. So it was rescheduled one final time for the beginning of October, right after the fete's of course. The planning details are boring, and required me mostly running all over Kankan to make sure officials would be present, the girls, volunteers and guest speakers would be fed, and all other things in between. The biggest pain was trying to find somewhere for the girls to stay, unlike the conference in Mamou, where there conference and lodging were in the same building, here in Kankan it was up to the Prefet (who is kind of like a mayor) to find housing. We didn't have housing until the very last minute and I thought I would keel over and die. It just reassured me that things here do take a little longer to do than you'd think, and as always testing my patience. With housing found about 2 days before the conference was about to being I had some my fellow volunteers in town to help me with last minute details. If there was one thing that I learned during this whole process of planning, its that I'm a terrible delegator. Any of the volunteers here will attest to that. I just felt like I needed to do everything, which I didn't but because I was the volunteer in Kankan and the only one running around like a chicken with their head cut off, I felt like the responsibility all fell on me. So a big THANKS goes out to David, and especially Alison for picking me up and putting me back together and helping me through those last crucial moments.

Girls Conference got underway, Alison and I were running around until the last minute just to make sure the girls' housing was clean and ready for them (which it almost was, when they started arriving). I was so nervous the night before the actual conference because I had to make a speech, in french, in front of everyone. I hardly slept and woke up with some nice diarrhea, which of course only made things that much more pleasant. We got there, and I was still running around, and finally as the officials started to arrive it was time for my big opening speech. It was over faster than I thought, with about as much sweating and stumbling through words in french as I thought, but Girls Conference was officially underway. The Prefet gave a great speech and talked about the importance and Adam and Ciara opened up the volunteer portion of the schedule with a session on AIDS. Over the next three days the girls heard from all the volunteers on a plethora of things from AIDS, to family planning, and nutrition. I hardly saw a minute of the conference because I was running around getting food, snacks and other various things. But luckily I did get to see one of the best parts of the conference, the panel of professional women. I invited 4 women from Kankan to come and speak to girls, unfortunately 3 of them showed up but luckily my new boss was in town and was happy to sit in on the panel. The three women work in Kankan, one is the Chief of a Health Center here, another was a Doctor that works with Faison Ensemble, and the other works for an Organization here that is kind of like mine. They were fantastic and gave the girls lost of great advice, and they were so happy to have been invited. They said that there aren't enough opportunities for young girls in Guinea to hear about how they can succeed with their education and lives. They thanked me a million times, but it was them who did all the girls at the conference a favor, I can only hope that they take some of the lessons back with them. After the panel of women the girls went around town to see women working in Kankan. I was so happy with all of them, they all learned so much and were so excited to share their knew knowledge. We ended the conference with painting, bissap, certificates and a big fat plate of riz gras. We shipped them back to village the following day, and I hope that they share their experiences with their friends so that they too know there are opportunities out there. Girls conference was a great experience for all of us, though next year I hope not to be planning the whole thing, I can't wait to be involved and spread knowledge to more girls across the region. In the works I believe is a boys conference, I'll keep you posted on that as well. Also because I missed most of the conference I don't have pictures just yet, but as soon as I do I'll post them.

Now that I have some down time before I'm back on the road again helping my organization give trainings I've done nothing but eat and sleep for the last 2 days. It was glorious. I haven't had a break like that in a while, I keep telling Guineans I'm going to sleep like a crazy person for a week. They just shake their heads and laugh. But for the most part spirits are high and while I'm enjoying a bit of free time I've got a full schedule in the upcoming months. I'll be helping out with trainings and I'm also helping a tailor organize a expo. He recently started an organization and wants to get his work out there and by out there, I mean out of Guinea. So we're organizing an expo in Kankan to showcase his work and the other artisans in hopes of finding them some funding so they can keep running. Its a challenge thus far, but we've still got some time to work out the kinks and in the end I hope something good happens for him. If you're interested or know people that might be shoot me and email and we'll see if we can get some contacts going. While going internationally is a big dream at the moment it'd be nice for people to see his and the other artisans work. Anyway I think thats all for me now, with the rains dwindling and heat soaring, and anxiously awaiting the 'cold' season I'm here, there and everywhere but I hope to be in touch soon!

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

the road more or less traveled...

It's been such a long time, and so much has happened. I am about to hit the open road with Liz and her cousins for adventures in Senegal and Gambia. I will then return to Guinea and barely have a moment to breathe. So since I found myself with a whole day to do nothing, I guess I can update you on whats been happening.

- As many of you have read thanks to the other volunteers who are much better at keeping up their blogs G 15 (my group) has lost 2 more volunteers. Though I am not able to discuss the reasons for their depature, you can check it out at katie's blog (tckinguinea.blogspot.com). I was lucky enough to see Katie before she left, and it was the hardest goodbye ever. Melissa, unfortunately, I was not able to see but miss her all the same. Katie and Melissa, Haute, Kankan and Guinea just won't be the same without you.

-G 16, the new group has arrived in country. The reports I'm getting from the volunteers that are training them are great. This new group of volunteers seems to be extremely motivated and eager to learn and even more ready to get out to their sites (which they find out on friday) and start teaching.

- Friday marks the beginning of my very first vacation in Africa. Liz, and her cousins invited me to tag along on their adventures to Senegal and Gambia. I am really excited to start seeing other parts of West Africa.

- Work is going swimmingly. By the time i get back from vacation we will have already started a 6 week training for 2 very large groups of businessmen and women. It will take place here, in Kankan and Siguri a town about 2 hours from here. So until Sept. 13th, I'll be all over the place!

- Girls Conference is also coming up, along with the arrival of the new volunteers at site. Girls Conference was started long before my time as a volunteer, it takes place once a year. It was scheduled for June but there were some political problems that caused us to reschedule. However, each volunteer invites a girl from their village/town and they come to Kankan or Mamou for 5 days and learn about a variety of different things... from planning for the future, to health issues. I, along with Adam, are planning the Kankan Conference so its kind of my baby and I'm excited to see it finally happen.

- So turns out my illness from earlier in the month was a nice little cocktail of ameobas. It was nasty to say the least. I'm feeling better and hoping they decide not to resurface.

- There is real ice cream in Kankan. Real being a relative term. It is by no means anything like the ice cream we know, and speaking of ameobas it might even bring them back again, but for now its a nice, refreshing treat in the hot sticky mess that is Kankan in the rainy season.

For the moment thats all I can think of. I really need to be better about writing things down so I can tell you all about them. I'll post some pictures to make up for my lack of information. I'll be back sometime in mid-september. Until then, I love you all.


We stopped for breakfast in Kouroussa and these two girls stopped by to wish us Bon Voyage.


My favorite, non-volunteer resident of Sabadou Baranama. Lancine.


Storm rolling in over the mountains of the Fouta.



One of the four bats the boys killed in the volunteer house.



David rigged himself up a nice little contraption for sleeping.

Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Sweet Home Pennsylvania

After sort of being a 'site rat' for a few weeks, I finally escaped to Conakry for some 4th of July festivities/medical problems. The medical problems are not as crazy as last time, but the bugs in Guinea LOVE me. Anyways, I blew into town yesterday much like the rains that roared throughout the night. Katie, Jess, Felipe and I scored a Peace Corps ride into town, and we manged lots of jolly ranchers and even listened to some Y100.... yes, my fellow Philadelphians, that is the Y100 our old radio station! I was so stoked and even though the tape was from 1999 I still rocked out to it in honor of my hometown. It felt like I was cruising the streets of Montco. Though every once in a while I was humbled by the site of goats, sheep, women carrying buckets and other various things on their heads and the ridiculous potholes that tossed and turned my poor stomach. But alas, I am here in once piece, albeit soaking wet. We haven't been getting much rain in Kankan, though it's supposedly the 'rainy season'. However, I was fully welcomed by the rains in Conakry, and soaked to my core.

Recent Happenings:

- Our Chauffer's wedding, I'm sure that I've mentioned this before...but he married his 2nd wife. Muslim's are allowed to have up to 4 wives, and Conde is well on his way.

- I met a monkey named Aminata. In the event you were unaware, Aminata is my African name.

- There have been some political problems, the teachers were striking, the military and police were feuding. Of course, there are still looming problems mais, c'est la guinee.

- Our Country Director and My APCD are leaving, and we've had quite a few staff changes. Also we are welcoming our new stage G 16 in a matter of days!

- My cat is super cute. I HATED cats before I came here but she keeps away bugs, rodents and cuddles with me at night. What more could I ask for?

- I am on my way to becoming the greatest Guinean cook ever. Ok, total lie. But I am trying. I learned how to make peanut sauce with Conde's first wife. Or I sat there and watched and occasionally got to stir.

- My house finally looks like a real house, or at least that someone lives there. I've been living out of a suitcase for the last 6 months.

Finally I will leave you with some pictures...





My cat, Tiya De. It means Peanut Butter in Malinke. Guineans are mortified that I named my cat after a food item.

Tiya again.

Conde and his 2nd blushing bride.


Butt touching at Conde's wedding. Felipe, Katie and I.



and again.


Katie, Jean and I looking lovely in our matching gear.


Breaking it down, Guinean Style.


The creator of my beautiful wedding attire, Mr. Sow.



Feeding the masses.



My first Mosque visit. Jean and I during the Religious Ceremony at Conde's wedding.

Saturday, June 14, 2008

Rule No. 457543 Don't Make Impromptu Decisions

Why, you ask? Well I learned this the hard way. Last weekend I walked Alison down to the Gare so that she could get back to site, sitting there, with my 2 kittens in tow, I decided right there on the spot that I too would make the trek to Mandiana with her. I bought my ticket and then sat there for the next 5 hours waiting for the mini bus to load up, even though before I bought my ticket I decided that I did not want to ride in a mini bus, too late now. By the time I decided that I no longer wanted to go I was packed in the last row of the bus with my cats on my lap and Alison in the seat next to me. We were on the road in the slowest mini bus ever, 4 hours and 2 prayer stops in we were no where near Mandiana. I was fuming, and my kitties were going crazy. Alison, my voice of reason assured me we'd make it there evenutally. Finally 2 hours later, and the longest 6 hour journey ever we made it Mandiana. I was so happy to see Katie, bathe and use the bathroom. I guess I neglected to mention that I was having the worse case of diarrhea in country to date. But we made it one piece, my plan was to turn around and go home the following morning. Yeah right. I stayed until Monday morning and had a much more pleasant ride back to Kankan.



Back in the big city I helped my homologue with a formation for a bunch of villages surrounding Kankan, it was all in Malinke. I did a lot of reading and writing in my site journal. The formation isn't over until monday, I believe I've missed the last 4 days. Malinke land is just too much to handle right now.



In happier news my APCD Josh paid me a visit this week! Though this was his last visit to Kankan I was so happy to see him, and eat some of the best white beans and fillet capitan in city with him. I even got to see him dance. All in all a great site visit. Josh's contract is up at the end of July and I am terribly sad to see him go. I'll get to see him one last time in July and then hes off to the City of Brotherly Love! All my best to him and Elin.



MAIL RUN: THANK YOU'S must go out to Dave, Travis, Frank, Heather, Aunt Karen, Rachel and all the Lathams, Ryan and Alex, Kristi and the Borko's and Dad. This past mail run was the best ever. Thank you so much for thinking of me, and I make sure to eat every last bit of food. LOVE YOU ALL!



As for the rest of the month, I will be attending the marriage of our driver Conde on Tuesday. Myself and 5 other Haute volunteers are going and we have matching outfits for the occasion, I will be sure to take lots of pictures. Upon my return is Girls Conference. We have been working hard, and I almost have everything secured to make it a success, or at least I hope. You probably won't hear from me until next month in Conakry. So until then, go jump in the pool for me and have an icy cold glass of lemonade.

Tuesday, May 27, 2008

fish fish fish fish

Haute Guinea is a magical place. The rainy season is knocking on the door, the flowers are in bloom, the grass is actually green and the fish fetes are in full swing. What is a fish fete you ask? Pull up a chair... During the dry season most of the tributaries of the Niger River dry up, leaving only these giant lakes, called Mar's (sp). The fish that live in the Mar's procreate, creating a nice little population in preparation for the big celebration. The month of May marks the end of the dry season, and as we all patiently await the rains, we celebrate by catching fish. A third year volunteer, Cathleen, graciously invited us to her former villages fish fete, the village is called Nounkounkan (noonkoonkan). Adam, Ciara, David and I hopped in a taxi, in our matching outfits to Nounkounkan. We arrived dirty, and sweaty per the usual but hopped out to be greated by Cathleen's host family. We said hello to everyone and awaited the arrival of Cathleen, who was out and about in the village and the others arriving with Steve our Country Director.

The village quadrupled in size with people coming from all the neighboring villages, Siguri and Kankan. We spent the earlier part of the day waiting for the others and walking around the villages shopping, eating and even sneaking in a quick nap. The festivities began with a dance of all the young women who are ready to be married. They danced through the market with their swords, making their way to where the drum ceremony would be held. We made our way over and were promptly greeted by one of the drummers and he escorted us to our seats. The funny thing about being an etranger (aka stranger or white person) in Guinea is that you get to sit in what we like to call the Patron seats. The drummer led us through the crowds of people to our seats at the head of the ceremony, where all the important people sit. We lounged in our seats and drank our coca colas and enjoyed quite a view of the drum ceremony. Drum troupes came from all over Haute. The group from Baro (near Kankan) was my favorite. The danced in elaborate costumes, and we finally got to see the masks that we've been told are seen in Haute. They drummed until dark, and continued on through the night. After we ate dinner and did some star gazing we headed back to the drum circles then off to an all night dance party. We danced almost until morning, or until 2 am. I was exhausted, we left so early, had a long day and needed to get up early because the fete-ing was far from over.

We woke the next morning to the sound of women singing, tradition I guess but it was so early! The troops were rounded and we set out into town in search of caffine. There are bar cafes all over guinea where you can enjoy a nice cup of sugary lipton tea or even coffee, should you dare. After recharging we grabbed our fishing nets, Steve our Country Director and headed off to the drum ceremony (yes there was another one). The ceremony of course, would not start for hours so we entertained ourselves as well as about 200 Guineans by singing Row, Row, Row your boat, Down by the bay, and the DJ played some music for us and we danced in the middle of a huge circle but alas it was time for the ceremony. The 'facilitators' cleared out some space for the dancers and it began. The drum ceremony was the precede the fishing. The drum troupes came out and danced as well as some of my fellow volunteers and the the masses made their way towards the mar. There were nets, buckets and these bird cage looking things everywhere... we were reading to get fishing. The fishing begins with the firing of a gun and then everyone goes charging into the mar/lake/bog like thing. Its incredibly muddy and disgusting but I've never had so much fun in my life. Ciara and I started out with a net and finally got the technique down and we started catching fish! Mostly we caught mud, but there were fish in there. Adam and I ganged up with Kim another volunteer and tried to maximize net space, catching quite a few fish that way, and we even let a big one slip through our fingers. We fished until we couldn't fish anymore and made our way through the muck to the shore and finally back to our lodging. We were covered from head to toe. We unsuccessfully cleaned off, ate some rice and got back in the cab to come home. We made it back to Kankan in one piece, though exhausted. We looked through every last picture (there are over 1200!), recounted our favorite memories, laughed a David's sunburn, which looked like paint splashes all over his back and finally drifted off to a fish filled sleep. The next morning we all decided that were going to every last fish fete next year because it was so much fun, and because I feel like I can do the fete justice so I've posted pictures, be sure to check out my Picasa (where I keep all my photos)! Enjoy

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Welcome Home...

I am finally back in Kankan after a very long hiatus. Me and a few fellow Hauters did a quick tournee, making stops in Kissidougou, Tokano and Koumban and finally made it back to Kankan on saturday night. Of course it wouldn't be home without a proper welcome. We were cheerfully greeted by the ever smiling and crazy Felipe, he was blasting Lionel Richie to welcome us... we set down our bags and caught up for a while. Our regional coordinator came over to welcome us home and at that moment I remembered I had left a bunch of packages in my trunk. I was so excited to eat some jellybeans and put on a clean pair of pants. Little did I know there would be a few surprises waiting for me. I opened the trunk and a family of mice had taken up residence! I screamed mostly out of shock, ok mostly out of fear, and everyone came running. The trunk was taken outside and we started removing the rest of the things to make sure there were no more, and of course we found a monster of a mouse living in my bag of books. At least he was trying to bone up on business techinques. Needless to say the mice ate most of my medication, they were probably really drowsy from the benadryl and must had a stomach ache after that because they ate my Tums too. Jerks.

In even weirder news, Adam, Felipe and I were walking through town on sunday and we saw a huge crowd of children. We had no idea what was going on until we saw that a man had a chimpanze on a leash! He was parading him around town and of course he spotted the only 3 white people in town and started yelling at us, telling us we MUST say hello to the chimp (and give him money, of course). Felipe took off, and that left Adam and I... we had no where to go. The man and the chimp had us pinned up against a building. I am pretty sure we both saw our lives flash before our eyes. We had no idea what this chimp was about to do. Well the chimp just mosied on up to us with his hand out, he just wanted to shake our hands. We begrudingly shook his hand (and didn't give him any money) and he went on his way. It was so crazy! We told everyone about it and weren't sure they would believe us. I'm not sure if we even believe it happened. Life in Guinea... it's full of surprises.

Thursday, May 15, 2008

... and getting caught in the rain

IST is slowly wrapping up, and its almost time to head back to site. For me, since getting sick, I've been away from site for almost 5 weeks. I am having terrible anxiety about going back because it feels like the first time all over again. Although I'm having major anxiety I am ready to go back, I have so many ideas for projects and can't wait to get started. Also in late June Girl's Conference is coming up, and I along with David and Adam are lucky enough to be in charge of the conference in Haute Guinea. Needless to say we have a very busy 5 weeks ahead of us.

In other news David's counterpart arrived with glorious news, besides the fact that he tells me I'm skinny all the time. I don't even care that hes lying, it makes me feel good. And whatever works right? Anyway I finally have a cat! His counterpart's cat had 3 babies and I get one of them. I chose a female and I think I am going to name her Tiya, which is Peanut in Malinke. I guess I should wait and see what she looks like...though most Guinean cats look the same.

Also the rainy season is in full swing. We've had some wicked rain storms in the Fouta, also I've heard Kankan has been getting its fair share as well. I am a little nervous because there is a hole in my ceiling and when I last returned my living room was full of water. I have my regional coordinator on the case, and hopefully he can save the day... or just most of my stuff from being ruined.

I've also posted a bunch of pictures and have more to come, and I know a few of you have asked for the link... without further ado...

http://picasaweb.google.com/amy.hylinski/PeaceCorpsTheFirst5Months

I haven't had a chance to comment on the pics, so if you have questions just ask... or better yet I'll just leave it up to your imagination.

Friday, May 9, 2008

All roads lead to Mamou...

Greetings from moyenne Guinea. G15 has reunited for a two week In-Service Training. We were all so very excited to see each other afterall, it has been almost 3 months since we've all been together.

I finally was able to leave Conakry late last week, and trip home was eventful of course. This is Guinea afterall. Katie and I departed with our other traveling companion David (Douda) to head back to Kankan. We road in the Peace Corps car until Mamou and then needed to get a taxi back to Kankan. Well we arrived in Mamou a little too late. Kankan is an 8 hour trip from Mamou and we are not allowed to travel at night, so basically there was no way were making it home. After much debate and stress Katie and I arrived at ENATEF and spent the night, note that we had been here about 2 weeks before on our way to Conakry and would be back in a few days time for IST. The following morning we called the guy in charge of the taxi gare (we had gotten his name and number the day before) and tried to get ourselves a ride back to Kankan. This of course proved to be difficult. We started calling at about 7 am and at 10:30 am we still had no ride... so we did what we had to do and deplaced an entired 6 place taxi to get home before the sun went down. It was a little expensive but there was no way we were spending another night away from home because we had to leave in a few days time only to return to Mamou. So on we went. The 8 hour ride was full of cigarette smoke, compliments of our cab driver, lots of coca-cola, yogury and biffa cookies. We arrived in Kankan as the sun was going down. We arrived just in time for the rain... one of the first real rain storms that I was able to witness. It rained cats and dogs all night long and I rode my bike home through the flooded streets to re-stock my supplies and grab some more clothes for my two week stint in Mamou. I was able to decompress for about 2 hours mostly because I did not want to go back out in the rain, but then it was off to say hello to everyone because I had been gone for so long. I am pretty sure all my neighbors think that I've left for good without so much as a goodbye.

I went to say hello to my co-workers, who were thrilled that my heath was improving. Though they did manage to torment me for a good hour by throwing mangos at me and trying to get me to catch them (read the previous post about my allergy). It was hilarious...for them at least. I said farewell and told my homologue that I'd see him in a week because he'd be joining me and the other PCV's for some IST business. From there I went en ville to say hello to the market ladies, my friends at the pharmacy and my tailor. Everyone was so mad that I left so quickly and that I was leaving again in a days time! I had a few people tell me we were in a war, and most of them asked where their gift was... you know, the usual. I finished up saying hello and made my way back to the Peace Corps office so that I could prepare for my voyage. On the way back to the office I ran into Adam, my favorite health volunteer from Missimana. We took care of some extra business and dinner preparations in town and headed back. The following morning we waiting for Alex to arrive, then packed up the car and hit the road to Kissidougou. We picked David along the way...well turned out he was in Kankan he never got the message that we were coming to get him. So we were on our way, we made a few stop to 'check the tires' and even stopped in Tokano, Conde, our Driver's village to meet his second wife. In the event you were unaware, muslims are allowed to have up to 4 wives. The marriage will be taking place in a few short months and needless to say all of the Hauters are excited to be invited and partake. We finally made it to Kissidougou and it is beautiful. Its so green! Zach has a seet set up and really awesome neighbors. We had ice cream, chicken, french fries and lots of popcorn. Adam, Jess, David, Alex, Zach and I also managed to find some fabulous boxed wine and finished the day off with a nice night cap. After lots of huit americane and debauchery we awoke to finish our journey to Mamou and pick up Sarah and Melissa. We stopped in Faranah after picking up Melissa, we managed to frighten about 40 children by chasing after them, and I had the most fabulous potato salad. I also saw a chimpanze! We hit the road, finishing a bottle of gin, most of a bottle of whiskey and a box wine. Needless to say the ride was interesting. We stopped numerous time to 'check the tires' and finally made it to Mamou 2 hours later. I think Daffe and Conde were happy to get rid of us.

We've been here for a week now and we've had more language than we're used to, it feels like pre-service all over again. I have managed to learn ALL the bad words in Malinke. I can now say, I am farting, I just farted, I have to fart and I can't stop farting in Malinke. I also can call people a butt crack and a piece of poop. Of course all of these phrases are useful, I can't wait to get back home to try them all out. As for the rest of the week we have some more language and a hiking/swimming trip planned. We still have a week left so I'll be able to update more, and I have posted a ton of pictures with more to come (on Picasa, email me if you need the link). Also a big shout out to my favorite APCD Josh and his wife Elin CONGRATS!!! (ps. I am a great babysitter)

Friday, April 18, 2008

Eczema Gross!

Finally on the slow and sweaty road to recovery. Recovery? You ask... well let me fill you in. I am currently in Conakry living the sweet life with good food and AC. However, I did not come here on a fun visit. I came here because I needed some medical attention. It all started a month ago when I found a cyst under my armpit and over the course of said month is morphed into a staph infection. So after much debate, I hoped into the regional car with my favorite chauffer Conde and made the two day trek across the country to the capital. Upon arrival our doctor looked at my monster staph infection and could only say 'wow' which was reassuring. However, I was in good hands and paid a visit to the Guinean International Medical Centre which is a Guinean hospital. Not to offend or scare any of you but I killed a massive cockroach in the waiting room, and the neighborhood cat hangs out in the ER, just to give you the level of cleanliness/sterility. Today I finally had minor surgery to drain all the pus out of my infection and now have a small tube in my arm which is taking care of the remaining pus. It was totally gross, and of course I asked to see the extraction... also gross. I have a few more visits to my favorite surgeon at CMI and hopefully I'll be in the clear, though one can never tell.

Its seems staph wasn't my only problem... turns out that I also have a parasite. And to spare you the details I spent a lot of time in the bathroom. Now I am on the mend and am enjoying the company of the PCV's visiting Conakry, the AC and free internet of course. I do have so work to take care of while I'm here, some other chose (things) and I believe one more round of antiobiotics (which are injected into my butt, tmi I know) and I should be heading back to Kankan before I know it.

Also made an awesome discovery today there is actually fresh made tofu in Conakry. Though it is not my favorite it was a great find and of course nice to spend some time with my favorite APCD. I've also eaten pizza everyday this week and will probably add on a few more slices before my depature.




PC Compound in Conakry, and our sweet rides.


A lovely picture of my staph infection. The monster on the bottoms is the one that was surgerized today. Gross.

Monday, April 14, 2008

Shout out to newbies....

Education, Guinea, Peace Corps, 2008

Just wanted to shout out real quick to those of you who will be receiving your invitations tout suite for PC Guinea! If you have any questions, concerns or otherwise don't hesitate to contact me!

amy.hylinski@gmail.com

Saturday, April 12, 2008

Rashes a plenty...

Well I have terrible news... I am allergic to the skin of the mango! This is a terrible discovery for me in more ways than one. It started out as a small rash around my mouth that I tried to remedy with a combination of hydrocortizone cream and benadryl. It has since spread to my cheeks, eyes, neck and now upper arms. Not to worry though, I spoke with our Doctor and I'm all medicated but just wating for the rash to subside. In the meantime im walking around looking like a pink marshmallow... and constantly being asked about my sante (or health). However now it is even more painful to walk around the mango filled city of Kankan, they sit there silently mocking from the bowls from which they are being sold, and from the heights of the trees where they sit just waiting to drop at any moment. How totally bogus. For the moment I am not supposed to be eating them, or probably even looking at them. After some time passes I will be able to eat them again, but someone will have to cut them up for me, good thing there are plenty of willing children that I can pay with candy.

In other news the Director of Peace Corps has made his way to Guinea. A few lucky volunteers are in Conakry wining and dining with him. He will also be visiting some of the site on the coast, unfortunately he won't be making it out to Kankan. Bummer. It is once again time for the monthly regional visit, a few fellow Hauters have made there way into to town and we'll spend the next few days as though we were in America though about a million times hotter. Zach and I are currently working on real work... well if you can call it that. In June he and I will be starting computer classes with our NGO so we're cooking up an action plan so that we're all prepared. Other than my rash covered body and the hot hot hot climate all is well. Mom and Dad, and Aunt Karen thanks for the mail! The charleston chews and trail mix...well I'll try to make them last, though I can't make any promises!

Monday, April 7, 2008

Road Warrior

45 miles and one sore butt later I am back in the grand city of Kankan. My trusty Peace Corps issue moutain bike and I finally made the 35 km trip out to Koumban to visit David for the weekend. Though I thought I would never make it. Despite the rolling hills and not-so rolling hills I rolled into Koumban only to be swarmed by all the village children...who directed me towards Chez David. There was no time for rest in Koumban, I took a quick 'shower' and was then whisked off to a meeting for all the women in the village... in malinke with a translator. 3 hours well spent I'd say. I spent most of the meeting shoo-ing away the children who were interrupting the meeting, and was then asked by the women of the village to go to the gold mines. No time for that of course. The rest of the weekend was spent making slingshots, eating mac and cheese (thanks david), listening to the video club next door and spending some good old fashioned time in the mud hut with David just chatting about life. I've also befriend his cat who slept with me every night and made David jealous. But alas back to life in the big city.

I made it home in good time yesterday but I am exhausted. No rest for the weary, its back to the grind. The mangos are falling off the trees like rain drops and I just can't get enough, It's about time! The mail run should be making its way through here in a few days...heres to hoping I got lots of goodies. My stash is running low! I just wanted to update you all quickly because I have to get back to work and the next two days I will be in a conference. But let's hope in the mean time I don't overload on mangos... but is that even possible?

Tuesday, April 1, 2008

I'm ET-ing

In other words I'm coming home. Things in Guinea just go to be too much, and I miss all the comforts of home. While everyone was so welcoming, and hospitiable it just wasn't enough to keep me here. I'm tired of pooping in a hole, eating rice and sauce (and poop) and speaking french...

APRIL FOOLS!!!


I'm sitting here in the computer lap with my fellow volunteer, leotard wearer and teacher extraordinare Felipe trying to figure out just how long I could pull this april fools joke on you all. However I just couldn't be that cruel. For the record all is well, well for the most part. We found out today that the price of gas has gone up 2500 GF, from 4500 GF to 7000 GF. This will effect other things as well, we've already noticed some price increases in electronics (felipe is in the market for a new phone) and I'm sure once I actually make it to the market today I will notice a change in food prices as well. There has been some talk that some boutiques might not be open tomorrow but for now nothing serious is going on. But now that the serious stuff is out of the way I'll tell you whats been going on with me.

St. Patty's day has come and gone, and along with that another visit from my surrounding volunteers in Haute Guinea. Of course the holiday wouldn't have been complete without a properly themed party, in this cause it was 'Naughty Leprechauns'. I would post pictures but I feel as though I might be violating some code of conduct or offended the ederly or make children cry. Needless to day it was a blast. The day started out with Zach and I searching the entire city of Kankan for ice. It was a wild goose chase in the sweltering heat, only to realize that we never were actually going to find ice. Though we did find a secret location with about 30 refridgerators, all powered by generator of course. We then shed our civilian clothes for lots (or lack there of) green. With food and booze a plenty we celebrated the holiday properly. After fete-ing like only PCV's know how I spent the next few days au village. I spent a few days in Mandiana, and Faralako. Well mostly Faralako. Much thanks to Jean for putting me up for a few days!! It was quite an experince. There are about 2000 people that live in Faralako, though that number is debateable because they are not actually sure. Life was so different from that of the big city of Kankan. By the time I left the village everyone knew my name and was asking when I'd return. I promised I'd be back to visit soon of course. However we celebrated easter in a sort of american way with an easter egg hunt! Though I am positive the children of the village had no idea why the white people were hiding eggs in trees and brush, they wore more than eager to seach for all the goodies. I also had the pleasure of meeting Jean's host mom, Hawa. She is hilarious. She only speaks Malinke so not only was she good for a few laughs but she taught me some new words as well. She insisted that Jean, Katie and I have babies because well babies are good, why else. I also scared the living day-lights out of her with my tigger. For those of you who know me well I travel with tigger everywhere. I did bring a minature version to africa and he even ventures to the villages with me. Tigger was sitting on the bed and Hawa asked to see him. My initially reaction was to toss him over to her, well this made her jump out of her chair and yell! She was terrified! We did document this event because it was just too hilarious not to. She refused to touch the stuffed animal and kept telling me it was bad. Oh how I miss Hawa already. I left Faralako with Katie to travel back to Mandiana so that I could take my very first solo bush taxi ride back to Kankan. The ride was eventful to say the least. It was a nine person taxi and there were about 15 people in the taxi, driver and apprentices included. I of course bought two places for myself so that I wouldn't be squished for the 4 hour ride back to Kankan and this totally pissed everyone off, oh well. We stopped about 50 times on the way home, you know to pick up various pieces of the car that would fall off, take tea in villages along the way, and a one point we even stopped to take all the stuff out of the trunk only to put it on top of the car and put the apprentices (who ride on top of the car) into the trunk... La Guinee. I finally arrived in Kankan covered in dirt. From head to toe covered in dirt. I got out of the car at the taxi gare and all the Guinean surrounded me and tried to clean me off, and laugh at me of course. I walked home from the gare, which is a hike, and everyone along the way asked me where I was going or would tell me I was dirty, like I didnt already know. I even saw the Peace Corps chauffer, Conde and he didn't even recognize me! After I finally made it home I cleaned off and took a nice long nap to the sound of the rain! It was glorious.

Back in Kankan life resumed as normal. I went back to work and started my Malinke lessons as well as teaching computer classes. I also attended class at the University in Kankan with my sort of boss, which was interesting, and kind of felt like I was back in college. Mostly because though most of the class I did a crossword puzzle. David paid me a visit, he was here to get his cat vaccinated but of course the vet was not in town...so I cat-sat for a few days. I went dancing with a friend of Daffe's who was visiting from Conakry, and few other volunteers. Though it was so sweaty, it was a blast. And of course now I want to go all the time, I've already been recruiting people. I've also been working with a tailor in town, appropriately named Mr. Sow and this past saturday we did a fashion shoot of his creations. It was an experience to say the least. Cathleen and I spent 3 shooting various shots of people in african clothes by the Milo River. The idea is that were going to make a magazine for him, and I'm going to help him build a website so that he can augment his clientel. Other than that not too much has been going on. The heat is unbearable and I'm still waiting for the mangos to be ready. So as I sit here and sweat to death I'll leave you with some photos...



Vogue photo shoot


my fave pic from the day


greatest model of all time
Mr. Sow.




My place of employment... MGE